Suit Silhouettes; Made to Measure & Bespoke English vs Italian vs French
Suit Silhouettes; English vs Italian vs French
To talk about the difference in made to measure & bespoke suit styles we should start defining silhouette. In a simplified way, it’s the shape that the outline of the clothes are creating on your body and usually people try to enhance or change the silhouette to a more desirable shape.
The Bespoke & Made to Measure English Suit SiIlouttes
Beginning with the Made to Measure / Bespoke English Suit, this style incorporates tradition and sense of structure. It's well known for its sharp lines, authoritative look and subtle formal elegance.
A few key features are: Construction :
- Heavily structured and sharped for a more formal, striking look.
- Padded shoulders giving a squared-off, military appearance
- Consists in a full canvas construction for durability and better draping.
- Tapered waist with slight flare around the hips creating a subtle hourglass silhouette.
Closure Single breasted or double breasted jackets with medium to long total length cuts, covering the seat High armholes allowing better range of movement
Lapel Medium to wide lapels with a classic notch or peak Occasionally adding a ticket pocket and side vents (double vent) for movement and practicality.
Trousers: High waistlines, often including brace buttons Straight-Leg cut, sometimes with pleats, amplifying the more formal and traditional charm
English suit style is practical and conservative, adequate for business and formal events. Using heavier fabrics like tweeds and worsted wools)
The Italian Made to Measure & Bespoke Suit Sillouette
The Italian Style can be described in one word; Elegance. Known for their light weight fabric options, sleek look with a modern and comfortable preference.
Main Features: Construction:
- Unstructured or light structured, more natural drape and softer appearance
- Shoulders with minimal or no padding giving a more relaxed style
Closure:
- Single breasted or double breasted with a shorter jacket length, showing more of the trousers.
- High armholes with narrower sleeves
- Single vent or no vent giving a cleaner look
Lapels:
- Slimmer lapels, usually with a peak lapel
- Minimal shoulder padding, emphasizing a natural and wrinkled look
Trousers:
- Low to mid-rise waistline, creating a more modern style
- Slim fit, tapered trousers and cropped hems, showing ankles slightly
Italian style is playful and stylish, embraces natural body shape (tapered fit) , it is also sophisticated in a more casual manner. Fabric choices are more light weight such as linen and silk, flat weave wools with high thread count.
The French Made to Measure / Bespoke Suit Silhouette
The French tailoring suit incorporates the structure of the English Silhouette and the effortless elegance of the Italian one, adding their own Parisian sophisticated touch.
Main Features:
Construction:
- Moderate and balanced structured
- Medium padding, showing definition yet not overpowering rigid shape
- Half to full canvas for classic draping and durability
Closure:
- Jacket length is shorter than the English style and slightly longer than the French.
- High armholes and slimmer sleeves creating a smooth modern look
- A sharper V-shaped silhouette with a narrow waist
- Single or no vent emphasizing a minimalistic look
Lapel:
- Narrow to Medium width lapels, usually with sharp lines , combined with minimalistic aesthetics, breast pocket, subtle buttons.
Trousers:
- Mid-rise waistline, tapered leg
- No pleats, cleaner and more contemporary look
- No break (cropped hem) like the Italian style yet not as pronounced
The French suit is the balance between the English and Italian style, (tradition and innovation), adding sophistication to their own style. Fabrics they like to use are Medium- weight, smooth textures and twill classic wools.